More Designers on the Decades

To ring in a new decade, designers look back — and forward — at trends, muses and fashion’s fate.


The decade that was:
High: “Even though I don’t have much time to immerse myself in fashion nowadays, the most exciting moments have 
always been by Chanel. Its fashion shows and pieces are amazing.”

Low: “Leggings. I despise them and do not understand the point of them at all.”

Top trends: “I loved Galliano and Riccardo Tisci’s 

Favorite muses: “My favorite is Amanda Harlech, who has always been very stylish, and Isabella Blow, who wore the most unexpected, fun outfits and hats. But almost nobody has worn my shoes better than Sarah Jessica Parker. She can pull off anything!”

The decade to come:
New muses: “I think Kate Moss will have huge longevity, and Linda Evangelista will be eternal.”

Next fashion capital: “Personally, my favorite has always been London.”

Styles to avoid: “Platforms! I really dislike them and would be happy not to see them ever again. They destroy the proportion of the body and make women walk in a very strange and ungraceful way.”

Hoping to see: “Beautifully made objects and clothes in the old traditional way — the way Hermès produces items. It doesn’t matter if they are expensive. Quality 
is the most important. I would rather have one outfit that is amazing and will last, rather than 20 not-so-
good ones.”


The decade that was:
High: “A look that is less retro, more contemporary, less backward-looking, more modern.”

Low: “Too much exaggerated means/power.”

Top trends: “The comeback of the rock ’n’ roll spirit. I have been working on it for 20 years. The trend has now met my tastes.”

Favorite muse: “Bianca Jagger. A mix of innate elegance and rock 

The decade to come:
New muses: “Maybe a woman of mixed race. Fashion needs to talk 
to women irrespective of race.”

Next fashion capital: “Paris. It will always be a fashion capital because it is open to stylists from all over the world.”

Styles to avoid: “Sadness and that Quaker austerity. In a crisis period, it is dangerous to go back to that.”

Hoping to see: “Sensitivity, humanism.”


The decade that was:
High: “A focus on niche designers.”

Low: “The growth of plagiarism in the fashion industry. I am a firm believer that you can have great design at all price points, and there is no excuse for brands that do not come up with their own design point of view each season.”

Top trends: “Intricate, bold statement shoes. Skinny, chic denim. Fluorescents!”

Favorite muses: “I’m often inspired by musicians and performers. Alexa and Kairo from the electro-pop band Riviera F. Also Elli from the French band Elli et Jacno.”

The decade to come:
New muses: “A young actress called Roxane Mesquida is my favorite contender. She’s effortlessly beautiful and talented, and she has those sensual French eyes. … Also, other young emerging talents such as Sandi Sirocco, Verena Paloma Jabs and Bojana Novakovic.”

Next fashion capital: “Paris and London will continue to be strong. Los Angeles is a city with tangible potential that is coming to prominence, but you have to look outside the cliché to find it. I’m also finding lots of inspiration in the Scandinavian and Eastern European countries.”

Styles to avoid: “Ugg boots for the city.”

Hoping to see: “Peace and an ever-growing interest and appreciation for the creative fields: music, design, art, video.”


The decade that was:
High: “The creation of the fashionably frivolous ‘Sex and the City.’”

Lows: “Crocs, ugly plastic clogs, footballers’ wives and status handbags.”

Top trends: “Vertiginous heels and stretch jeans.”

Favorite muses: “There are so many women whose lives or work I admire, knowing what must be sacrificed to achieve it. But if I have to choose one muse, it’s Madonna. She is an inspirational light for modern women, able to embrace the years and stay forever cool.”

The decade to come:
New muses: “I will tell you in 10 years.”

Next fashion capital: “Pandora (from the film ‘Avatar’), or other points of view of the digital world.”

Styles to avoid: “As much as I loved the 1980s, I’m pretty tired of the re-revival and long pointed shoes.”

Hoping to see: “A real breakthrough in the Middle East peace process, which could be the start of a wider peace process all around the world and deeper consciousness about the world we share.”


The decade that was:
Highs: “Tom Ford as a director, Balmain, Karl [Lagerfeld], the Obamas, eco-friendly everything, hybrid cars, Rachel Zoe, Blackberrys, iPhones, so many amazing things.”

Lows: “The recession and losing our confidence in our industry. Other lows were losing Farrah Fawcett, Michael Jackson, Herb Ritts and Richard Avedon, Helmut Newton and Yves Saint Laurent. They remain alive in all we do.”

Top trends: “The return of platform shoes and really high heels, and, of course, shoulder pads that look modern.”

Favorite muses: “Kate Moss and Lady Gaga.”

The decade to come:
New muses: “Lourdes (Madonna’s daughter) and Lady Gaga and Kate Moss, of course.”

Next fashion capital: “Paris and New York. And Asia will be a huge influence.”

Styles to avoid: “Besides Crocs, I am always intrigued to see a reinterpretation of styles from the past.”

Hoping to see:“Our country get back on track to make it the land where dreams are made of … with prosperity and peace. And always high heels!”


The decade that was:
Highs: “My first million-dollar shoe created for the Oscars and the return of Phoebe Philo.”

Low: “The loss of Yves Saint Laurent.”

Top trend: “Stiletto platforms because they can make a good pair of legs look great and a great pair look fabulous.”

Favorite muse:
“I have loved watching the transformation of Angelina Jolie.”

The decade to come:
New muses: “Judging from their amazing careers, which have taken off this past decade, I would say Beyoncé, Kate Hudson and Natalie Portman.”

Next fashion capital: “It’s not moving from New York.”

Styles to avoid: “Ugly shoes.”

Hoping to see: “My 78th birthday.”


The decade that was:
High: “Expanding into new markets: Russia, the Middle East and China.”

Lows: “The recession and its new challenges.”

Top trend: “I love a peep-toe. The hint of seeing the toe is sexy and refreshing.”

Favorite muse:
“Michelle Pfeiffer. She is the epitome of sexy. Her look is both strong and feminine.”

The decade to come:
New muses: “Kate Hudson for her fun and effortless approach to style, and Eva Mendes for her smoldering beauty, complemented by her ability to transform classic pieces to look young and fresh.”

Next fashion capital: “I’m Italian, so naturally I would say Milan.”

Styles to avoid: “Long-last, pointy shoes. … The shorter lasts today give the illusion of a smaller foot and a more feminine and refined look.”

Hoping to see: “Casadei staying true to our family tradition … but also continuing to evolve and improve upon the processes and materials we use.”


The decade that was:
High: “The Internet.”

Low: “The recession.”

Top trends: “Flat shoes — Lanvin’s ballet shoe.”

Favorite muse: “Kate Moss.”

The decade to come:
New muses: “They are still at school trying to break through.”

Next fashion capital: “I love where they are now: New York, Paris, Milan and London.”

Styles to avoid: “Crocs.”

Hoping to see: “My shoe company grow.”


The decade that was:
High:People realized a guy with a guitar and leather boots is way sexier than a DJ with headphones and fluo sneakers. This clearly changed a lot in fashion.” Lows: “The death of Yves Saint Laurent, and the endemic invasion of high street brands copying every single item from the runway.”

Top trends: “I like that wearing black has become acceptable and is not regarded as a statement anymore.”

Favorite muse: “Eva Mendes.”

The decade to come:
New muses: “Muses of tomorrow are the outcasts of today.”

Next fashion capital: “It was, it is and it will be Paris.”

Styles to avoid: “Tartan … and Uggs.”

Hoping to see: “Nations finally joining forces to fight poverty, hunger and climate change.”


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