Buyers React to NY Collections

Top buyers weigh in on the spring footwear trends in New York.

Liz Rodbell, EVP of merchandising, Lord & Taylor

Strongest Trends:
• Height such as platforms, wedges, espadrilles and stacked heels
• Ankle interests
• Nude colors such as ivory, sand, tan, cognac, vacchetta and blush tones
• Natural materials, including wood-bottomed wedges, rafia platforms, canvas uppers and macramé woven details

“Must-Carry” Styles from New York:
• Height in every which way
• Neutrals
• Natural materials

Directional Styles:
“The shows have consistently registered the big ideas: nudes, natural materials, height and ankle interest. Some to note were Elie Tahari’s wood-bottom wedges in sand and cognac colors, and Tracy Reese presented stacked heels and high wedges.”

Ones to Watch:
• Mark & James by Badgley Mischka. “The new collection looked strong and registered the trends.”

Buying Strategy:
“Our strategy of going after the big ideas is consistent [with what we’ve done in the past].”

Lincoln Moore,
Fashion director for women’s accessories, shoes and jewelry, Saks Fifth Avenue

Strongest Trends:
• 1970s-inspired sandals
• Wood details
• Color-blocked wedges and platforms
• Unexpected colors and materials

“Must-Carry” Designers from New York:
• Sergio Rossi
• Brian Atwood
• Alexandre Birman

Directional Styles:
“We love the new direction of the 1970s-inspired sandals and wedges. They look great [paired with] the new wide-leg trousers and the longer-length skirts seen at many of the shows.”

Ones to Watch:
• Lila Castellaneta

Buying Strategy:
“During the New York, Milan and Paris shows, we will be covering the market to represent the best of fashion from the runways, as well as combing the market to discover new and emerging brands to platform in our ‘Special Delivery’ concept. ‘Special Delivery’ is a capsule collection of a variety of emerging designers that we test for one season in our New York and Beverly Hills, Calif., stores. It is an amazing way for new designers to enter a major retailer, and it allows us to showcase and nurture new talent. We are looking for special shoes; basic is not responding with our customers.”

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