Her bohemian Chloé background led people to question whether Clare Waight Keller could do dark. But yesterday in Paris, she answered any naysayers with a show that was gritty and gorgeous in equal measure.
She took the city of Berlin as her muse, fusing elements of both east and west with a cinematic film noir quality. “It was the idea of bringing that sense of luxury but then grittiness as well,” she told FN after the show.
Here are her protagonists:
The reimagining of the police boot: midcalf, all angular lines and diagonal zips to the side but done in cashmere-thin wisps of leather that seemed to shiver as they moved. Basically the footwear equivalent of the idiom “iron fist in a velvet glove.”
The collection feels “bourgeois but sharp underneath,” Waight Keller told us. And so does this stiletto sandal.
Sharp leather ankle boots came with a suede cuff, an eminently chicer take on the voguish sock boot. Make like the runway styling and team with a look that falls just below the knee.
These graphic, low-heeled bicolor pumps are an everyday shoe that means business. It’s no coincidence that Waight Keller siphoned off a pair for herself from the collection and wore them to take her finale bow.
The designer pulled in a star-studded cast of extras for her front row. Hottest ticket? 18-year-old Roy Wang. As evinced by the horde of screaming teenagers outside the venue, he’s China’s biggest pop star. Supporting performances came from Naomi Rapace, Karen Elson and Arizona Muse.