MCQUEEN UP CLOSE: Sarah Burton’s fall collection was informed by a team trip to Cornwall. But while stomping through the British countryside might have accounted for the fact that shoes were resoundingly flat, that was only half the story. Off the runway and up close in Paris, the embellishment was spellbinding.
A hand-stitched boot, in particular, combines sampler-style cross-stitch from a kneeler in a tiny church with trails of raw thread recalling a clootie tree (a sacred tree to which people tie charms while making a wish). While Burton was researching her collection, she discovered that McQueen had already been looking at samplers for inspiration.
MATCHESFASHION ON TOUR: The MatchesFashion 30th-anniversary tour continues apace. Following a residency in New York, the retailer touched down in Paris this week, setting up house in the city’s Hôtel de la Salle, a 17th-century “hôtel particulier” on the city’s chic Left Bank.
The packed event program features a series of talks — symposia, to give them their grander name, one commensurate with the surroundings — and even a shiatsu sophrology stretch class led by experts from the city’s hippest and most luxurious gym, Le Klay Club.
IN CONVERSATION WITH ERDEM: The aforementioned “symposia” included Erdem Moralioglu on Thursday, in conversation with Pamela Golbin, curator of Paris’ Musée des Arts Décoratifs. Celebrating an exclusive 10-piece ready-to-wear collection with the retailer, Erdem discussed with Golbin everything from his (self-confessed) obsession with different time periods to the art collection he rotates between his home and his London boutique. He also revealed the next chapter in his label’s story: a new retail space in New York.
Chatting afterward, the designer, who made his shoe debut for spring 2016, expressed his love of a total look. “Footwear is a key way to extend the collection, a really important category for us, and it’s growing every season.” His fall ’17 favorite, he said, was a lace-up boot in fabric to match his show’s opening look: “I thought there was something really odd about it, but in a beautiful way.”