Grace Wales Bonner shifted gears for spring ’18, moving away from the rich textures and embellishment she’s mined in past collections. Instead, she channeled a modernist aesthetic characterized by unadorned, lean silhouettes.
“I wanted a change, I wanted to approach something through a modern lens. … It was intentional to break with history in that way,” said the designer, explaining that instead of directly referencing history, she thought about it through the prism of literature and also drew inspiration from “different black artists who explored a blue mood.”
The result was a subdued collection dominated by slim suits, bermuda shorts and fluid tunics that had a more masculine sensibility than in prior seasons. It was presented in a Swiss Church in Central London, filled with blue-tinged glass panels.
The footwear, which was created in collaboration with Manolo Blahnik for yet another season, embraced the designer’s new mood. There were backless loafers made from glossy or interwoven leather and worn with monochromatic suits or tailored shorts. Other loafer styles featured subtle pops of color in the form of orange and blue side stripes mirroring the stripes on a pair of slim-fitting pants.
Another look featured a white suit matched to a plain black pair of flip flops, which created a striking contrast.