For fall, Erdem Moralioglu riffed off a combination of both his British and Turkish heritage.
“Normally the collections have a fictional narrative that feels quite far away,” he said backstage, following his show on Monday in London, “but this time it was much more personal.”
Prints and patterns took inspiration from the old Ottoman Empire and the designer matched footwear with ready-to-wear to dramatic effect. Boots and gowns alike came in printed, embossed and embroidered velvets with the richness of a Turkish carpet. There were also printed jacquards — often with heels in a contrast motif.
Babouche style slippers were embroidered with flowers like an old English sampler or wound with striped ribbon borrowed from the military medals of his great-grandfather.
A more surprising Ottoman reference were the platform sandals. “I discovered that women used to wear them to perform their toilette,” he said. (Mental note: Must wear platforms to perform ablutions.)
To view the full collection, click through the gallery.