Paris Footwear Label Adieu Teams With Koché

Adieu Type 1 Shoes
The Adieu Type 1 model.
Stephanie Courquin.

Adieu is on a roll. The Parisian footwear brand is plotting a capsule collection with Koché, the French ready-to-wear label founded by Christelle Koché that’s known for blending streetwear references with contemporary art using the kind of upscale techniques usually reserved for handmade creations.

The collection consists of 12 items — three women’s shoe styles coming in four colors each — that will be showcased in Koché’s spring 2017 show and in Adieu’s showroom one flight up from its Paris boutique, at 7 Rue d’Aboukir, from Sept. 27 to Oct. 6. The line is slated to hit stores next January.

“There are affinities between our two brands,” said Isabelle Guédon, who started Adieu with her boyfriend Benjamin Caron for the fall 2012 season.

“We don’t make compromises. We are passionate and have a common vision of fashion,” added Guédon, who was Alber Elbaz’s right hand at Guy Laroche and at Yves Saint Laurent.

While Koché has already used existing Adieu models in its last two shows, the capsule collection was conceived specifically with Koché in mind, translating raw and matte materials and hues, such as “workwear” blue, black and sand.

Adieu had revenues of 1 million euros, or $1.33 million at average exchange, in 2014. While initially a men’s footwear line, women’s shoes generate about 50 percent of the business. Its bestseller remains the classic derby style, called “Type 1,” both for men and women.

In addition to a freestanding store in Paris, Adieu now counts around 60 doors worldwide, including Dover Street Market, Nordstrom’s Space section and United Arrows, plus its newly launched e-commerce site that went live in late June.

“This is a big step for us,” said Guédon, referring to the site, which in its first month made sales equivalent to that of the Paris boutique. But she partially attributed the strong showing to the past few weeks being the sales period in France, which benefits online businesses. Down the road, Guédon expects the site to represent about 30 percent of the label’s overall retail sales.

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– Laure Guibault