The shoes: Inspired by his recent travels to the White Knights festival in Russia, the collection featured a plethora of velvet, embellishment and ornamentation. Even his new Western boots had a decidedly Russian influence. While the designer prohibited photography in two of the collection rooms (he’s serious about curbing knockoffs of his collection), he gave visitors a visual feast when they first entered the showroom.
There were crushed and tapestry-embossed velvets in platform sandals and over-the-knee boots. One pair was adorned with gold couture embellishments that invoked military insignias and clergy robes. Embroidered block heels and suede tassel-belted boots also were pulled for traditional dress.
The designer also unveiled a collaboration with Naty Abascal, his self-proclaimed fashion godmother and well-known muse of Oscar de la Renta and Valentino. “She’s so inspiring, super elegant, cultured and she goes to everything. She has more energy than me. It’s not an obvious thing, it’s not an it girl. Our brand is cross-generational and it also shows that a woman can be fashionable at any age,” Osorio said.
The verdict: The industry’s fastest rising young star delivered several standout styles with commercial viability. But the overall effort and theme wasn’t as powerful as recent collections.