Day 4 — Alexander McQueen
At Alexander McQueen, Sarah Burton referenced the iconic shoe shapes of her late mentor. The aardvark rounded boots of his final collection were brilliantly reinterpreted, this time as a kicky slingback clog. They came in multiple iterations — from denim to eggshell leather.
And while clog codes have been apparent throughout the spring ’16 collection, what was thoughtful and new here was the embellishment details on wooden soles. So often left rugged and slightly raw, Burton’s came tricked out with patchwork, engravings and even metal hardware inlays. Just call them anti-normcore, fantasy clogs fit for a wood-nymph wonderland.
Day 3 — Dior
Ultra, outré femininity continues to be re-examined and reimagined at Dior under Raf Simons. Usually, the designer employs footwear to undercut any overt sweetness with an element of discord — be it previous seasons’ fetishistic patent and acrylic boots or couture sneakers. But for spring ’16, that was less of the case.
Block-heel mules had more of a soft gamine insolence than a serrated edge. Designed by house footwear lead Francesco Russo, they still were packed with many new details which are sure to influence. The heel shape, for instance, was a novel teardrop wedge. And across the pointed toe upper, a pulled sash and D-ring provided a draping detail — an update on the expected bow. The same draped approach applied to secure patent ankle straps.
Day 2 — Dries Van Noten
Does one wear the same pair of shoes with everything anymore? Not really, given our current era of spoiled-for-choice footwear frenzy fashion. Yet on the runway, there are usually 1-2 shoes, repeated, which serve to give even the most haphazard of collections some consistency.
But Dries Van Noten does not need to rely on such devices. So particular and special are his design codes that an assortment of shoes is par for the course. And part of the delight. For spring ’16 they came in a multitude of dizzying varieties.
Shocking pink wedges opened the show with a jolt, so bright was their satin. The slingback shape with notched heel detail referenced class late ’30s Ferragamo. They were offered in prints and in drabber hues too, but with a cluster of sequins or leather ruffle on the outside edge.
Day 1 — Anthony Vaccarello
Anthony Vaccarello loves to play with asymmetry in his ready-to-wear, so it made good sense that he mimicked his slashed-to-their aesthetic in runway sandals. Full-exposure heels came in his preferred black on black, but also in flashes of mixed metallics and acrylic paneling for spring ’16. They were again in collaboration with Stella Luna. These revealing styles offered the full reveal of feet and begged the question: where does one get a worthy pedicure in Paris?