Mouret Puts Stamp on Clergerie Collection

Creating a sexy-yet-comfortable high-heeled shoe was one of the challenges Roland Mouret set for himself in his new role as the creative director of luxury French shoemaker Robert Clergerie.
Case in point: The collection’s brown-leather platform with a 75-centimeter bamboo heel possesses, in Mouret’s eyes, a “cinematographic attitude, like something a French actress would wear in the 1940s.

“Yves Saint Laurent created that ’40s-inspired look in 1968 during the student revolution in France, and there’s that feeling that we are in the same [kind of] period,” Mouret said at a recent presentation of his sprawling debut footwear collection for the house, which features around 80 styles.

The new role marks Mouret’s second stint with Clergerie. During the label’s heyday in the 1980s, he worked on its advertising campaigns.

For fall, Mouret revisits Clergerie’s masculine derby with a sharp “shark nose” toe, for instance. Other styles — all produced in Romans, France —include open-toe sandals, leather rainboots and brogues.

Retail prices start at 350 euros, or $460 at current exchange rates. The collection will enter the brand’s 20 standalone stores in May, as well as a selection of department stores and multibrand stores internationally.

Mouret, who will also bow a signature line in Paris next month, has introduced five vintage-inspired bag styles.

The Clergerie label is undergoing other changes as well. Last year, it was acquired by Fung Capital, led by fashion veteran Jean-Marc Loubier.

Since then, Fung Capital has also acquired majority stakes in Belgian leather goods concern Delvaux and, most recently, French fashion house Sonia Rykiel.

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