New York Runway: The Reaction

Todd Handshaw
Fashion Director, Wynn Resorts, Las Vegas

Strongest Trends: “Leather has come back to overtake the overabundance of patent for the past couple of seasons. It also seems the footwear vendors are gaining confidence — there is a return to color, with coral as a predominant shade and many pastels rounding out the palette.”

Must-Carry Styles from New York:
– Rupert Sanderson’s closed-toe ring-tailed lizard Mary Jane
– Nicholas Kirkwood’s butterfly lace-up shoe booties
– Behnaz Kanani’s black-and-white tilapia lace-up shoe

Ones to Watch: “We’re testing a couple of styles with H. Williams for fall and are looking forward to a nice order for spring ’10. While we always look to newness, there are a couple of brands that are showing new vitality, including René Caovilla and Cesare Paciotti. We also work regularly with such wonderful designers as Nicholas Kirkwood, Chrissie Morris, Behnaz Kanani, Rupert Sanderson and others, so they are old friends for us, while for most other stores they would be emerging designers.”

Shift in Buying Strategy: “Our buying strategy has always been to stay focused on our customer and present a point of view that is forward in thinking and always new. This keeps us very busy trying to find new and talented people, and we will always be true to that. We have felt a resurgence in the economy and are comfortable with the increases we’ve planned in sales, and the open-to-buy will always correspond. We’re not reckless, but we do have a nest egg set aside for the next great talent.”

Liz Rodbell
EVP of merchandising, Lord & Taylor

Strongest Trends: “The key looks are platforms with lots of ankle interest: thick banding and wrapping. From a color and material standpoint, nudes and matte leathers look great.”

Must-Carry Styles from New York: “On the runway, many designers showed extreme platforms and wedges in the neutral palette. Some labels to mention were BCBG Max Azria, Badgley Mischka and L.A.M.B.”

Tracy Margolies
VP & DMM of Shoes, Saks Fifth Avenue

Strongest Trends: “Peep-toe booties, the continuation of the aggressive sandal (skins and materials are cut out for a peek-a-boo effect) and flat sandals.”

Directional Styles: “We were very excited about the fashion offering at Camilla Skovgaard.”

Must-Carry Styles from New York:
– Oxfords
– Peek-a-boo or aggressive sandals
– Summer booties
– Flat sandals

Shift in Buying Strategy: “We are focused on fashion, emotion and perceived value. To differentiate 10022-SHOE, those factors are crucial to determining the assortments.”

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